Trekked through some wild seas to get there. © Shield
‘The Cape’ had the best banks ever but too small so we towed in to one footers then bodysurfed for about 200-300 yds on some after diving off the boards. Crazy.
Benji Wetherley broke his nose when his board hit him at the end of the session as we were both riding one. Trevor Hendy (6’3″) rode my 5’4″ on a few and loved it. Jimmy O’Keefe, Tom Servais, Shieldsy, and our friend Jacko joined us and most everyone got a few waves.
Bodysurfing the sandbar earlier with Benji. © Shield
It was a hell ride upwind on skis to get there made all the worse when we arrived to small surf but we made the most of it, and the erosion on the coastline ride up revealed some pretty crazy earth below that we don’t normally see. Colors I didn’t know existed in sand, from pinks to blacks to reds to oranges and yellow and everything in between. I hit the shore and collected some for keepsakes.
Benji with a pound of ice on his nose at the pub. © Shield
Watched the Coldplay gig in Brisbane last week, which was an amazing production. Chris Martin headed down one day to see the event but it had been cancelled for the day just shortly before. He spent time watching the free-surfing instead and we couldn’t talk him into joining us and our best three hundred friends at the Superbank running into Greenmount.
Snapper. © Joli
I didn’t quite have the success I was looking for in the event obviously, but it was a first for me and quite enjoyable riding my own shaped equipment. Maybe it was a good thing I lost early and it’ll throw ’em off the scent for a while should I have some success with it in the future.
Everyone seems to have their opinions about my choices but that’s just fine. They’ve gotten me here and I think that’s ok for now. If you’re not a genius I guess you’re a fool. I’ll tell you what, I almost couldn’t steal my board back off of Tom Carroll the other day. Might need a safe to put ’em in shortly if he’s around much.
Don’t want that back foot stomping my tails down before I can lay a few turns on rail without getting it out of the ding shop first. Small man, heavy foot. Just watch him drive. I’m off back to CA now. Back to the drawing board and having some fun.
Bye for now.