Well, I ‘ve been back in the swing of things in Bali. There has been heaps of swell lately and this time of year up here gets super crowed so I have been lying pretty low and surfing all the out of the way spots and doing a bit of paddle boarding, trying to stay away from losing my mind with how many people froth-out up here.
We’re blessed up here, it’s official.
In Indo, twice a year all the locals get their cars and motorbikes blessed. Since I have been here for about a year now I thought I should get ours done. You can never be too safe on the roads over here!!!
Expect to see these boards flying all over the place when the local Canggu kids get hold of them.
I have also shaped up a 5’3 and a 5’7 for the local kids down at Canggu to share. Some of the kids really do surf good but are surfing on broken or super beat up boards so I wanted to give them a chance to really bring out their potential and give back a little bit to the local crew so I shaped up these boards and got them glassed at the local surf factory, REDZ.
I also had to spend about a week out of the water from an infected insect bite. Check out how bad it got. All better now.
J-Bay starts this week and it’s going to be the first time in about 14 years I haven’t been there for the contest or ASP meetings so I’m feeling a little sad I guess. I really do love the place, people and the wave. Well, life will go on and my life isn’t that bad! Hahaha.
‘Til next time: Live like there’s no tomorrow.
Jake the Snake