worldprosurfers

April 21, 2008

TAHITI WIPEOUT

Filed under: Damien Hobgood — Tags: , , , — wpssuperblog @ 9:54 am

Damien Hobgoods Blog

Well, don’t know where to start, but basically hadn’t had good waves in a while and was amping to get barrelled. So, during our break, was looking on the map for the best place to get that fix.

Tahiti looked like the best bet so was going there for 3 days then coming back home. The second day I was there was just what I was looking for – 6-8 feet no
wind and perfect swell direction.

Damien

Editor’s note: Damien’s had a bittersweet relationship with Teahupoo in the past. In the 2005 final he had to pull out midway after a dislocated shoulder (pictured). In 2007, he won the thing.
© JOLI

Got out in the water at about 7am and was planning on surfing all day. It came to about 3pm and took off on this stupid wave and broke my board and got washed in to the lagoon so was pretty mad at my self. Came back out pretty bummed at myself and then ended up doing something even dumber …

Don’t really know exactly what I was thinking except probably should have done
anything but what I did; hesitated on this wave, thought I could get out of it, got sucked over the falls, went straight into reef, knew I hit hard and knew that something had happened.

Hit my head pretty hard so was just trying to stay with it until I got out of the impact zone. Went to hospital to make sure everything was okay, and it was, besides some broken bones.

I took the next flight out and went and saw Dr. Kramer who said I fractured three parts of my scapula but I wouldn’t need surgery which I was really happy with.

Felt like things could have been way worse and in hindsight maybe shouldn’t have stayed out so long because was getting pretty tired, and not thinking properly isn’t good out there.

Peace,

Damo.

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