I could see the white of the bone.
This is what I have been doing lately! In my fourth round heat with Jeremy Flores, I mistimed a paddle for a wave, got sucked over the falls onto dry rocks and did this. OUCH!!!
I didn’t know how bad it was until I asked Jeremy. He seemed pretty concerned. He actually said he would go in with me. I think Jeremy was more scared knowing that there were sharks in these waters. I was bleeding all over the bloody place! Not to mention the water patrol was checking out the scene out the back with us trying to figure out why there were so many fish around us. SORRY!!!
As I was looking closer at my ankle I could see the white of the bone. I surfed the rest of the heat just to make sure my ankle was working correctly. I went to the doctor and got eight wide stitches. He really had to dig around in the wound, pulling out a couple of barnacles.
Well, after waiting all this time to start a new year of competitive surfing, I finished with an overall 9th place in the first event! I’m really stoked to be here and have another go on the Dream Tour. I wouldn’t have it any other way.