A recent day here in da islands.
I hope you are all getting sick waves!
I have been hanging here in Hawaii and really enjoying some quality water time. I have bounced around on the last few swells taking advantage of the outer island solitude.
We have also had some really great surf here on the North Shore. The Backdoor Shootout ran last week in some of the best Pipe/Backdoor I have seen in years. The level of surfing was amazing. The format really pushed everyone in the event to swing for the fences because advancing is not the objective. It’s all about trying to get a 10. It was a lot of fun to surf in for the mere fact that there were only three other guys in the water and the surf was pumping.
We are finally in full winter swing and the swells have been stacking up. The variety here on the North Shore is pretty amazing and I have been really enjoying some soul surfing. Not worrying about being the wave of the day guy at Pipe. Just getting back to the joy of riding waves with just a couple of other people out. I feel really recharged and excited about surfing again.
It’s been really great to have this time off to get back to what it is all about. Fun!!! Hope you are having fun!