worldprosurfers

June 4, 2007

THE RETURN OF RIK LOVE

Filed under: Luke Stedman — wpssuperblog @ 9:49 pm

Sted’s Blog
The boys on an Indo break, Ottz, Steds, Rik, DJ Teeth, Teebs, Ron, Snake

The boys on an Indo break, Ottz, Steds, Rik, DJ Teeth, Teebs, Ron, Snake

Today is the first day I have been able to get pen to pad, actually its finger to key. Anyway it’s been a bullshit few weeks. I was in Tahiti for the Billabong Pro at Teauhpoo. I got the best result I have had this year so, naturally, was frothing-out and I was probably testing some other people’s patience with my abnormal level of energy. Sorry guys, but it was worth it.

I snapped my fin out of one of my boards and I was freaking out as I did not have a back up in that size. Young Tommy was cool enough to let me use his shooter. It was kind of heavy as I don’t think Tom had ever surfed his board this good before. Hahahaha. Kidding around kids, I could only hope to surf as powerful as Tom.

Anyway I rode his board all the way to the 1/4s and was eventually beaten by Mick Fanning. I was really stoked to make the 1/4s at Teauhpoo and I’m much more confident now going into Chile.

As soon as the contest finished I flew directly home for a few hours to change boards and clothes and flew straight to Indo where I was doing a boat trip with Rik Love, Jake Patterson, Tom Whitaker, Jarred Howse, Taj Burrow, Nathan Smith and Ron Blakey. It was the first trip Rik has done since his injury to waves that are solid, powerful and a shape that can make dreams come true or turn them into nightmares.

It was so awesome to be on a boat with all my best friends. It’s been a long time since we were all able to surf together and for Rik I would think it has felt like a lifetime. Rik has been doing a lot of stand-up paddle boarding back home so he brought his along with him and you could see how good he was at it when he stroked into 4 foot peaks at Playgrounds and could throw his 9’0 around like it was on top of hot butter.

Nothing could really stoke me out more than this one session out at HT’s, when Rik pulled off a wave and hooted himself. I was like, ‘What has he done?’ The next wave I caught I spoke to Nathan who was shooting from the water about what Rik had done. Nate showed me the photo that he had just taken through his water housing and I was shocked. A full-on two-fins-out hard-core mother-fucking hack. It looked like Rik had never had a disabling injury and that he was still competing on the WCT. Speaking to Rik out the back he was so over the moon. It was like he had just done a full-rotation upside-down mctwist on a 10 foot wave: he was just so excited and I got chills in my skin and the water was 30 degrees.

That little experience made my trip as well as a few barrels of my own. I just had the best time ever and I’ll never forget it and I know that Rik won’t either. His life has just taken a turn for the best and I’m sure that there will be many more to come for him now.

Hope you like.
ls

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1 Comment »

  1. any pictures of Rik killing it!!!!!

    Comment by JW — June 5, 2007 @ 12:21 am


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