Tahiti was long but felt really good when it was all said and done. Tahiti is very beautiful but really laid back and can get pretty boring when there is no surf. During the down time there was lots of card games and crap talking to pass time.
When the final day came around I was feeling really good and felt that leading up to that day things were really going my way. For example anytime I needed a wave in a heat it would just come. Even if there wasn’t much time I was pretty calm and cool that it was coming which is huge in competition.
That isn’t usually me and I tend to get a little amped and make an error at the end of the heat when I should have just kept my cool. The last day of the contest I was thinking that this could be my day and to just keep the rhythm I had going.
Still got to do your washing. © Joli
Well the day started off a bit slow for me but was able to get some momentum in the first heat which was pretty close. After that, was able to surf against Parko which being on tour for 8 years I have never surfed against him.
There weren’t really any waves for that heat and I happened to catch the couple that came through. In the final against Mick I knew it was going to be a hard one, he brings so much energy to every heat which I love.
Mick beat me in the Brazil final and all I was thinking was ‘don’t let him beat you again in another final’. Well, Mick had the upper hand in the whole heat – being he had the high score, so I had to just sit and not let him get another huge score and hopefully I would be able to get him in the end.
Board rack back at the house. Didn’t get to use many of them. © Joli
Even though there wasn’t much time left I still felt like a wave was coming to give me a chance. The wave came and I was just able to get the score. Mick surfed a great heat and I was fortunate enough to be able to beat him, which I was so pleased to have pulled off.
Mick is a great competitor and a great sport no matter if he wins or losses and I really appreciated that. I was going to stay the next day for the swell that was going to peak but felt like I had to get back to see the family so I left that night. Thank you again to all the great people in Tahiti for all your love,