LOVE THIS TIME OF YEAR

Pipe. © Joli

I’m on my way to Hawaii, we’ve got an amazing world title showdown about to unfold in front of us at Pipe and my mind is just full of all of those amazing waves we had last North Shore winter. My mood has obviously been helped along by my recent run of results which has got me back into a position to achieve my goal for this year – finishing inside the Top 5.

I’ve had a chance to freshen up at home on the Goldie after the Search in Portugal and I’m frothing about what might lie ahead in Oahu. The Triple Crown is going to be awesome.

Having that little “mini-circuit” at the end of the Dream Tour is a nice carrot at the end of the season for the guys who are out of the running for the world title — and that’s all of us bar Mick and Joel!

That carrot’s pretty big this year too. It’s a nice cash prize but I still reckon the prestige of being a Triple Crown winner is something money can’t buy. If I can repeat my 2007 Crown success again, I’ll be stoked.

But most eyes are rightfully going to be on Joel and Mick. Australia wins either way because we get to bring the world champion home with us at the end of the Pipe Masters. It’s going to be an awesome show as the title comes down to the wire.

Mick has the upper hand — but not by much. Both guys have made finals at Pipe so it’s anyone’s still. I’d love to replicate my 2007 success at Pipe because not only would it cement that top 5 finish I want and prime me for a big campaign next year, I will have also achieved my other goal of winning at least
one event per year.

I’ve done that the last three years running, so the pressure’s on at Pipe!
My recent run gives me some confidence, though. I last blogged after the event in France where Mick beat me in the final. I followed that with a 5th at Mundaka and then reaching the final in Portugal against Mick yet again. So I can’t be too bummed. Two seconds in France and Portugal, a third at Trestles and a fifth at Mundaka gave me the consolidating run through California and Europe that I needed.

It was a bonus to also be involved in one of the more memorable tour days. I’m talking about the third round and quarter final day at the Search.

We’d missed the best surf in years at Mundaka by a week so everybody was amping for Portugal.

We had fun waves before the event started. There are so many set-ups there and that coast gets so much swell. Everyone was stoked to be surfing some good waves because we hadn’t had much the rest of the European leg.

I felt right at home among the punchy beach breaks. Growing up on Straddie Island, we encounter those sorts of waves all the time. The only bummer is they are board breakers too! I snapped my favourite board on my first wave in my heat with Marlon Lipke. I was so bummed. It was the magic board I won in Brazil last year and that I had used in the final in France. I loved that board!

Peniche. © Joli

It was hard to get my head around it for a couple of minutes there but then I said to myself: “I’ll get another magic one”, and got on with the heat.

The third round and quarter finals were pretty insane. We scored some of the best waves of the year in round three. There were a lot of closeouts in the quarters but the odd perfect one would sneak through. It was one of those that saved me in my quarter with Jordy. That’s a heat I’ll definitely remember. I knew he would be fired up to beat me because I had knocked him out in the last comp the week before. And sure enough he had me on the ropes and just about beat. I needed a 9.67 to win, which is pretty much a 10. But I just had this weird feeling that if I was patient I was going to get it. Luckily this bomb came through and it went to plan. That wave – and being awarded a 10 – was such a rush. And the crowd made it even better. They were insane to surf in front of, probably the best I’ve seen on tour. They made it so much more exciting to surf.

My semi clash with Parko is also something I’ll remember for a long time. I knew it was going to take a big heat to overcome Joel given he was obviously back in top form. The swell had dropped off from the previous day but it still looked fun. Joel got a couple of good scores early then the wind changed halfway through the heat and just went to crap. I needed something like a 7.8 and I couldn’t see much hope of that given how the barrels at the start of the heat had pretty much disappeared. Time was ticking down and this left came. Parko didn’t go it and I thought ‘I’ll just go it and see what happens’. It turned into a 7.3 and then I only needed a 5.5. I paddled back out and pretty much got nearly the same score. If only all heats went that well!

The conditions were even worse for the final. Mick and I were both scrambling for whatever we could find. It was really hard to find a wave that ran off and let you get in a few turns. I fell on a good wave and that probably cost me the final. But it was still good to finish on a high note after a good trip.

Bring on Hawaii!

- Bede

HAWAII & HOME

This is Otto laughing at Dayyan because he has beached himself. Beached as.

G’day Mateys,

First of all, Happy Australia Day to all my fellow Aussies out there on the web.

There hasn’t been many blogs getting posted over the festive season due to the fact everyone has just been
having too much fun to leave the beach or their mates’ bbq to go and sit on a laptop … even for 2 mins Well that’s my excuse anyway.

So now that we are back into the swing of things I managed to grab a few photos out of my iphoto library and throw a couple words down with them. You might find them amusing … or you might not.

It’s a compilation of shots from Hawaii and home – two of my favourite places;

Otto again, getting a photo with Bottle’s big poster at the Haleiwa Reef Pro.

Me and Steddy; shuffleboard cowboys.

Haha, this shot is hilarious, two long-neck giraffes on the MAI TAIs. As you can see by the colour of mine, I substituted the rum for extra tequila (my favourite).

It’s worth flying to Hawaii just to go to Turtle Bay and play shuffleboard. Tommy and Clouse would agree. Even though they’re not that good at it

Glen Hall’s Bucks Night. A few minutes after this shot, his shorts got ditched and he spent the rest of the night cruising around in just his fiance’s wedding day panties, haha funny night.

Parko – Triple Crown Champ: It’d be hard to even imagine how good this would have felt. I’d say pretty damn good judging by the smile on his head! Ben, Sam and me with him straight after he’d won. With his 10 grand watch.

Ben tattooing Mick. You can check out the whole ordeal on the Rip Curl website.

Back home for Chrissy with friends after pretty much six full months on the road.

We were down the beach with the kids every afternoon for the first week of 2009. We even dragged mattresses down and slept at Angourie point on the full moon. So much fun. Left to Right; Bob, Carrier, Nav, Ben and me – plus the kids – Jimmy, Zeah, Taiig, Jaspur and Jesse.

Me, Baddy and Carrier at Spooks point – New Year’s Eve … The wedding of two of my best friends Nav and Jacinta Fox

Me and Laurie get a photo with “Nulla”. Spooks point – last day of 2008.

Backio Day: Everyone comes home and catches up for a big arvo of drinking and celebration down the beach. That’s red wine in my hand and eyeballs, not sure why … sick fun though, yeeeewww.

Anyway hope you have an unreal year. Stay safe, have fun and enjoy the now.
especially you Otto

- D Ross

“I’LL TAKE THAT!”

A great season on The Rock and plenty of fun ones to sink your teeth into on the small days at Rocky Rights as well. © Joli

If somebody had said to me on January 1 this year that I would finish the year having jumped from No. 5 to No. 2 plus pick up a CT contest win along the way, I’d have gone: “I’ll take that!”

That’s how 2008 has ended for me and I’m stoked with how the year has gone. Would I have wanted to have finished No. 1? Of course! But Kelly just had such an amazing year and was nearly unbeatable. That might have demoralised others on the tour but it didn’t me. Quite the opposite actually.

I learnt heaps from this year, both from watching how Kelly went about
remorselessly hunting down that phenomenal 9th world title, and from my own experiences. I will take that all into next year.

Kelly is an amazing athlete that pro surfing is so fortunate to have. I’ve seen articles comparing him to Roger Federer and Tiger Woods. He’s definitely in their company in terms of what he has achieved and that has helped the credibility of surfing so much — but in 2009 I won’t be out there to lie down for him. I know he wants 10 world titles. My plan is to be in the way. I know it’s a massive task but I’m up for it.

When I reflect on this last year, there are some good memories. Winning in Brazil was obviously the highlight but I actually felt I probably did my best surfing at Trestles at the Boost Mobile Pro. Trestles is just such a high performance wave when it’s on plus I had an amazing board I could do no wrong on.

My best heat was probably against Owen Wright at The Search in Indo. The waves were pumping and we had a really close high scoring heat that went down to my last wave before I shook him off.

I think another key this year has been that I kept my training up all year and didn’t slacken off like I have done in the past. That made for more consistency in my performances. I also changed my backhand tube-riding technique and that worked so much better on some of the barrelling lefts on tour.

I made a few mistakes this year that cost me. I’m not losing any sleep over that because you learn from your errors. A good example was not following Kelly over to Rincon in the Bells final when I held the lead and priority. That ain’t ever going to happen again!

I’m also stepping my training up even more for 2009 and I will also make an additional trip to Tahiti just to put a bit of extra time in there.

All three events copped amazing waves. © Joli

People ask me that now I am No. 2, do I feel like I’ve now permanently shed the underdog status thing. Not entirely, I believe. I still don’t get the media attention like the other guys but there has been a huge difference this past year.

It was good to close off the year with Hawaii having one of its best seasons in a long time. There were so many good days plus we got really good waves for the Triple Crown too. The last day of the event at Haleiwa was pretty insane. Other than the semi-final heat, Parko and I were in when no waves came through at
all (it was really bizarre, it just stopped for 20 minutes), the surf was awesome that final day.

One guy who caught my eye this winter was Dusty Payne. He is such a talented surfer, and he can do it all whether the waves are big or small. He has a massive future in surfing. I felt Adrian Buchan made big gains on the tour this year and is a guy who we should be watching for. Ace had such a good second half of the season and finished 6th overall.

I’m spending the Xmas/New Year break relaxing and spending time with family and friends up at Stradbroke Island, enjoying myself before I get back into a heavy training routine. Have a great Christmas everybody.  Hope you all get some waves and I will talk to you in ‘09!

Bede.

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Been a busy little bumble bee of late. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZing all over this globe a couple of times over and over and over of late.

Can’t get enough honey though so I’m BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZing as much as possible.

I got a DJ Falcon next to me then a Ron Blakey and a Cow boy. All kicking it at dusk at this joint called 100 Marches in France. It’s right next to where I stay in Biarritz and it’s the best afternoon bar in the world. I’m serious, nowhere else in the world can beat this place for ambiance, view and cold beer.
DJ Falcon plays in Paris regularly and travels with Daft Punk and is a super keen surfer. So we got to hand wit. Ron was commentating both the France and Spanish events and Cow boy was my personal chef though Europe. Both are my boys. Big time Babe …

This is the view from our crib in Biarritz. It sux huh.

Although Cow Boy has trouble sticking airs in the surf. He landed this thing so sweet. Rode out of it like butter on a fry pan. Thank god though as I was over taking him to hospital.

Da Boys on the bike trip.

I could not get enough of this. Tb and i laughing so hard at this. My boy Otto trying to explain why he was going around a roundabout the wrong way in France. A bee stung him he cries. Idiot … but he got off … so is he a genius?????

Say no more …

Who is dat kook. I have so much fun making fun of myself.

Spent a bit of time in san Sebastian. This was right before we got some crazy grits at one of the many, many Tapas restaurants. Fun little town but if you go make sure it’s after 3pm, otherwise she is shut for business. Also, if you’re going out, don’t go anywhere till after 1am.

MJ took me to Maui for my first time. Such an epic place. Beautiful. This is the only shot I took ’cause I’m a lazy camera man. Can you believe that she also ordered scrambled eggs? FREAK!!!!!!

This is a random night in LA right before France. My good friend Tak and Raymond Pettibon. Raymond is a cool cat who is one of my favorite artists. I got to hang with him so it was really cool. Raymond has done artwork for Black Flag and also designed the logo for the group. He has also worked with Sonic Youth, another of my fav groups. He has his work in Museum of Modern Art in NY, The Museum of Contemporary Art in LA, and a large collection in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.

His work….

- Steds

HALEIWA, SUNSET, PIPE

Parko has spent a bit of the break up on North Stradbroke island as well. © Shield

It was really cool to arrive home to Stradbroke Island in Australia and find my family and friends had organised a party for me after winning in Brazil. It was a great buzz and drove home the good feeling around securing my third WCT contest win and moving to No. 2 in the ratings behind Kelly ahead of Hawaii. I’m a believer in celebrating your victories but you can never stop moving. So my mind has also been fully focussed on the Pipe Masters and the Vans Triple Crown where I am defending both titles.

It’s given me a real focus for Hawaii. Basically, Parko and/or Taj need to win at Pipe to overtake me in finishing second on the WCT for 2008. I’ll be stoked if I can hold the position as it will complete a solid season where I will have moved from No. 5 to 2 – providing real confidence for a shot at the world title in 2009.

We’re all dropping equal ninths in terms of our best results counting, so it’s going to be hard for people to make up points with just one event remaining. But it’s a bonus to also have the Triple Crown to aim for as well as Pipe.

There have been plenty of fun times this year outside the contests as well; at South Stradbroke with Bottle and Clint Kimmins a couple of months back. © Shield

I was stoked to take out last year’s Triple Crown. The respect the Hawaiians alone hold for the Crown makes you proud to have won it. I guess it’s because the three events are often held in such diverse conditions at different North Shore breaks and it’s a real challenge to prove consistent across all of them.

The opening event is at Haleiwa, which I reckon is an awesome wave. It gets huge (and a bit scary) there but it’s still a real high performance wave even when it’s big. The contest at Sunset is different. When Sunset is on, it’s a full ocean wave with its own unique feeling to it. Longer boards are required and conquering Sunset is a feat in itself.

Then you finish off with the Wimbledon of surfing, the Pipe Masters. It’s the premier event in the premier wave. To have your name on that trophy is just so awesome. But I’m greedy … I want to see it there twice!

The Pipe Masters also has the best trophy in surfing. You get a handcrafted special board made by Gerry Lopez. I’ve had it on display in the Mt Woodgee shop window in Coolangatta for the past 10 months and it certainly draws attention.

Sunset, there’s simply nowhere else like it. © Cory Scott

For obvious reasons, Hawaii is also the ultimate proving ground for your equipment. I’m taking over 10 boards. With the five I left over there from last year, I’ll have 15 in my quiver all up. The lengths range from 6′2 to 7′6 and the reality is you could surf your shortest board and longest one on the same day – the swell can rise that quickly, often within hours.

My boards went insane there last year so having the best of last year’s batch and a few new ones as well has me amped. It really helps that my shaper from Mt Woodgee Wayne Mckewen has spent so many seasons in Hawaii himself. Wayne is so onto what is needed there and knows exactly what I need to surf well in those kinds of waves. I’ve tried a few Hawaiian shapers’ boards in the past but Wayne’s just felt better – and that gives me plenty of confidence.

My wife Tarryn and I will be staying in a nice little studio at Sunset with a nice family we know who have two young boys who surf. We stayed there last year and I am really looking forward to getting back, seeing them and surfing some big hollow waves.

Aloha everybody,

Bede

ALOHA WEBWORLD

A recent day here in da islands.

I hope you are all getting sick waves!

I have been hanging here in Hawaii and really enjoying some quality water time. I have bounced around on the last few swells taking advantage of the outer island solitude.

We have also had some really great surf here on the North Shore. The Backdoor Shootout ran last week in some of the best Pipe/Backdoor I have seen in years. The level of surfing was amazing. The format really pushed everyone in the event to swing for the fences because advancing is not the objective. It’s all about trying to get a 10. It was a lot of fun to surf in for the mere fact that there were only three other guys in the water and the surf was pumping.

We are finally in full winter swing and the swells have been stacking up. The variety here on the North Shore is pretty amazing and I have been really enjoying some soul surfing. Not worrying about being the wave of the day guy at Pipe. Just getting back to the joy of riding waves with just a couple of other people out. I feel really recharged and excited about surfing again.

It’s been really great to have this time off to get back to what it is all about. Fun!!! Hope you are having fun!

Cheers,

Pancho

RAIN IN THE SUGARBOWL

Even windy and small, Rocky Point has still been rideable.
© Joli

Not a whole lot to speak of here on the North Shore. The weather and surf has been the worst since the winter of ‘94/’95. It has rained for a month straight and the trades have been a blistery 15-25mph everyday. I am hopeful that ‘08 brings a change in the jetstream and the weather pattern.On the positive side there have been waves to surf almost everyday. It’s been really nice just being at home and spending quality time with the family. I’ve been working around the house a lot and catching up on a lot of sports through the holidays.

UH Quarterback Colt Brennan, rocking a very-Hawaiian hairdo.
© Courtesy: Mr Irrelevant

Watching college football bowl games galore. I was so disappointed for the UH (University of Hawaii) players. They played their hearts out this season but the offensive line forgot to show up and protect Colt Brennan in the Sugar Bowl. It was heartbreaking to see him get sacked eight times. I wish him well in the NFL!

Go Blazers! 13 wins in a row through the month of December. It’s playoff time in the NFL. I love this time of year.

Ahhhh shoot, I gotta run, my kid just dropped his guts. Time to change his diaper. Its all about multi-tasking! Hope wherever you are, you are enjoying all the great things in life.

Cheers,

Pancho

KEEP THE NORTH SHORE COUNTRY

Ahhhhh, home at last!

It feels great to be back in Hawaii with my family and friends. It’s been a long year of travelling and being away from home and missing the wife and kids. That is one of the hardest aspects of being on the WCT.

It’s that time of year again. I love competing in the Triple Crown. It may not always be 20ft and perfect which is what everyone expects when they come to the North Shore but even when its only 3ft it has way more power than anywhere else in the world.

Read the sign, then check the website, keepthenorthshorecountry.org © Shield

It feels great to ride some bigger boards and to get a few sections where you
can push with everything you have, instead of having to nurse your turn through a soft section. The crowds are pretty overwhelming at the moment but even if you get one good one your session is made.

Speaking of crowds. Do any of you know that the Oak Tree Development Corp., who ownS the Turtle Bay Resort, are planning on building five new hotels and 1000 condominiums at one of the most beautiful and pristine bays in the world called Kawela Bay.

Imagine how bad the traffic is going to be on our little two-lane road with all the construction trucks and cement trucks and all the traffic associated with something like that?

Is that being responsible? The City or State of Hawaii is allowing the use of an EIS (Environmental Impact Statement) from 1985. Please get on board and support the cause to fight corruption and greed!

Keep the North Shore Country! Go to keepthenorthshorecountry.org

And for background details about the situation click our article here – www.worldprosurfers.com/save-the-north-shore.htm

Mahalo,

Pancho.

FROM THE INDIAN TO THE PACIFIC

Well, I have had a pretty full-on couple of weeks since my last blog …

Balinese groms, always stoked.

In Bali I helped out the local boardriders club run their grommet contest which was pretty fun and they seemed to be really stoked to have me judge the whole day.

We are well and truly into Movember and I have been watering my Mo every day but there isn’t much to show for it.

I’m hoping to end up like these two dudes by the end of the month.

After the weekend it was back to Yallingup for a good friend’s wedding. Everyone loves a wedding, the bummer was I had to get up at 6:30 the next morning and head off to Hawaii because I’m on the alternate list for the WQS events and I have to be there first heat to put my name in and hope someone doesn’t show up.

How’s this for some airline damage for your surfboard. this is the board I beat Andy with in the Quiksilver Pro earlier this year. I’m pretty devastated. Life will go on!!!

Not real cool, because this will be my last season competing in Hawaii and I’m not even sure if I’m going to get in the events. I have had a pretty good run I guess in Hawaii. I think this will be my 18th season going to Hawaii and in that time I have had two 3rd place finishes at Haleiwa , have won Sunset twice, and the big one in 1998 winning the Pipe Masters. So the place has been good to me.

—

Well. I’m on my way to Hawaii so stay turned for how I hit the golf ball. Also, to answer a few of your comments from my last blog:

1 “thats a huge move jake! would want to be for a good/great cause…not many would take the risk of “bali” verses yals..? hope it works out great for ya” – Comment by brownie

I love living in Yallingup and only plan to live in Bali for a couple
of years so I will always be coming back to the house on the hill.

2. “Snake that looks like you are going away from the goals, so do they keep you permanently in the back pocket??? Bummer, ’cause l heard Judd left for the Magpies so there’s a spot up for grabs” -Comment by Kevin Sheedy

And to that Magpie supporter, I would never play AFL for the pies not
in a million years. Hahahaha.

3. “What’s Caangu like this time of year, Snake?” Comment by Anon.

Well, it’s getting really hot at the moment and the rainy season has just
started so it’s not really the best time of year but always good to go and
have a look at somewhere new.

- Jake

CJ’s VIDEO BLOG

Stunk it up pretty hard in Brazil — 17th — pretty rank. I was sitting at 12 and wanted to try and get into top 10 when I left Brazil but I ended up dropping two spots. Not good, we’ll see how Hawaii goes.

I know everyone wants to here about the ladies and the nightlife down there in Brazil but you honestly can’t describe it, there are not words.

Got home on Wed. super-stoked as I know I get to hang with Genevieve until I leave on Sunday morning. I had a great time this week as Thursday I went out with my friends and got to catch up with them which is always good because I don’t get to see them enough.

With Corey, “Gaybo King” and Bobby on the Muscle Beach Dream Tour, Brazil.

Friday and Saturday was the Sean Slater Invitational: to raise money for cancer.

Waves were pretty small but me and Genevieve had a great time playing on the beach. It was pretty cool ’cause Kelly, Corey and me all ended up in the 3-man final.

Main reason why it was so cool is it meant most of the money went to charity as we agreed at the beginning to give all our $ to charity. Which ended up being 5,500 between us, plus some dude donated 20,000 dollars on the beach.

So who cares about the waves right? Wrong. Kelly hates to lose. Even though the waves were 1 foot, I comboed those suckers. Prob shouldn’t say that as next time I get Kelly in a heat he will prob go crazy on me. Whatever, it was all fun and we had a great time talking crap in the final.

There was a get together at Kelly’s house that night and then we all went out in Cocoa Beach afterwards. Good times. I’m in Cali at Damo’s house organizing boards, then off to The Rock later on this afternoon.

peace

ceej