Had a big day today, I planted a whole heap of trees out the front of my place. Pretty exciting, they’re going to look unreal in about five years, haha.
The last couple of months has been fun, spending a lot of time in the tropics, with warm water and unreal weather.
View from the water in Tahiti – the sunrises are amazing …
… Sunsets are just as good – Chief sitting on the rocks.
Tahiti was cool, it is such an unreal place – just a bummer that what we thought was going to be one of the heaviest and scariest events of the tour was only head high or smaller for the whole time. Although, I still managed to get a lip to the head first wave and tear a few layers of skin off my back.
Things didn’t get much better in my next heat and I ended up with another 33 in the tally. Except for the right that I got in the last couple of minutes of the heat. Yep, a right-hander out at Teahupoo. It was a good one too. Probably the best wave I caught all trip:)
Ronny Blakos chillin’ by the pool in Fiji. That spa behind him there has the best view you’ll ever see from a spa. You feel kinda spoilt when you come in from a surf and kick back in the spa watching crew getting barrelled for 100 meters.
Cambo and Willsy watching the comp.
Then it was off to Fiji a week later. We arrived to pumping waves and pretty much jumped straight off the boat into 4-5′ Restaurants. There were only a few of us out for about 20mins before everyone hit it. Sooo much fun.
The next day before the comp started I caught one of the most perfect lefts I’ve ever caught. And had a great freesurf but again I struggled to put it together in my heat.
Since I’ve been home I have just been getting into the training and swimming and surfing heaps. The waves pump this time of year at home, and there is hardly anyone surfing — so I’m lovin’ it.
Dan.
