

All wired up and ready for Brazil.
The joys and the pains of Surfing!
Surfers live a pretty banging life style. Travel and surfing the best waves in the world. Living the endless summer, beaches, bikini’s and barrels. Well it’s not all like that. Now I’m not one to start winging but the last few weeks have been tough. After my recent good results in
France and the States. I backed it up with a 33rd in Mundaka. (Or should I say the Bakio Pro, as this is what it is becoming after several bad years of waves.) In 1ft close outs. I then jumped on a flight to the Canary’s, A 6 star prime. I have heard nothing but good reports about the Canary’s. The problem was the wind was onshore, the waves were small, we got our wetsuit’s stolen and land is dust, not too different from the moon. I pick up some points and hightailed it out of there to Brazil where I am now.
A quick 15-hour flight and seated next to a huge football forward like person. My back is fucked as he needed two seats and decided to take mine. Luckily I am staying with Jarrad Howse and he has some electrode device called a Compex that has seemed to do the trick. Comps on and
I’m back in the water
‘Til next time I write.
(more…)

Well have not written in so long because not much has been going on until now. I finally got the x-rays back and the bone is pretty much healed back together but I’m taking it real easy because of what happened last time It healed back. I’ve got the go ahead to walk and it feels good but I probably won’t start training on it until November.
Then if everything feels a 100% I’ll try to go over to Hawaii in December and do the Pipe contest. Anon sunglasses flew me over to Australia for an event they did and to hang with the team and crew from Anon so that was a treat since I haven’t been doing much. I’ll hang here for a few days then back to the States where I’m hoping to get the go ahead to do some serious rehab on the legs?
Peace
Damo


A couple of good results and then bang, a kick in the nuts 33rd. We are hanging out in Bakio, a small beachside town close to Mundaka. After making up so much ground and looking good to get back in the 27 … last, ouch … Oh well back on the WQS and over to the Canary Islands.

Step 1: Drink the bar dry.

Step 2: If bar stocks are depleted, drink the winery dry.
In the mean time I have been enjoying the local culture, eating and drinking with my Basque family Margaret and Txetxu. They home most of the Australians and today they showed us around one of the local wineries. We walked through the fields picking grapes from the vines and ended up drinking from the different vats … Pretty cool.